Leigh Creek to Coober Pedy

Our route has taken us out of mobile coverage for a couple of days as we’ve progressed north, then west. After Leigh Creek the road went to gravel with a couple of newly made sections of blacktop. After Marree it was gravel all the way to our overnight stop at Coward Springs.

The road surface has generally been good. There’s been occasional sections of corrugations and rocky sections that make it rough, and naturally the frequent but irregular occurrence of dips, flood-ways and cattle grids. All of which require some caution on approach and often a foot plant of brakes for safe over.

We pushed to get to Coward Springs and arrived in the dark and rather too late. The sign said ‘Full’ but as there was little option other than to go on another 75kms to William Creek we went in anyway and found we could camp in the day parking area. This was a great stop with some interesting history, and lovely camp ground, camel treks, and the natural spring with water a temperature of about 28 degrees. An oasis in the desert. The kids and mum enjoyed a soak or “bath in the bush” as it was.

After some minor repairs to the van (the stones shredded the cable ties holding the electric brake wires, and we had to duct tape the back windows, and silicone and tape some holes to prevent dust entry), we headed off for the last hop to William Creek.

What can you say about William Creek other than there’s not much there! The sticker we purchased says “William Creek – the middle of nowhere” and it is just that! There’s the pub with what seems the obligatory menagerie of business cards, hats, thongs, notes, artwork, photos, Student IDs and so on that adorn the walls, ceiling and doors. The other establishment is Wright Airways who are kept very busy with flights over Lake Eyre. Dan took a 2 hour and Liz a 1 hour Wednesday morning. The patterns both on the landscape around the lake and in the water formed by the salt and wind are simply stunning and quite beautiful.

Our next leg was west to Coober Pedy. It should be pointed out at this stage that since leaving Melbourne the weather has not got any warmer, and we’ve experience wind and rain, wondering if the weather some how found out we were leaving and followed us! It rained the night before our departure from William Creek meaning there was a question as to if the road would stay open or close until it dried out.

We waited around to see if all was clear and several vehicles left, so we followed. Immediately we drove into sandy-clay and lost traction with the vehicle and van sliding all over the road. Once the centre-diff lock was engaged traction was regained though occasionally the van attempted to over take the car when we went sideways in a soft section. The worst of it was nearer William Creek and we averaged 70kms hour in the end. On reaching Coober Pedy the van and car were caked in mud and gritty sand. In 2 attempts and about $54 bucks in coin, pressure washing it has still not removed it all. It started out fun, but ended in tears! We need a river to drive the car into or a couple of hours driving in heavy rain to get it clean.

Coober Pedy is a strange place. Driving around town and everywhere you look there are stories of such hope for prosperity and riches that turned into tales of despair and misfortune. No doubt there is money in opals, however it seems not all make it.

We’ve had a great day here, visiting the underground home of Crocodile Harry, had lunch in the Underground Desert Café, then toured town visiting the local ‘underground’ churches.

Lastly we went to the Umoona Mine and Museum that was perhaps the highlight for all of us. There was a great display of both mining and local aboriginal history and information and a short film about opal mining that we watched. The kids maintained attention for the whole film, then at the end, part of the screen slid back and a man gave us a demonstration on opal cutting and polishing which was just fantastic! Lastly, Liz scored an early birthday present when she picked out an opal ring for which she is most pleased with.