The Kimberley and Bungle Bungles

We took caution and left our caravan in storage before heading out to the top end of the Gibb River Road. In asking around we’ve had such varied opinion and report on the condition of the road. Sometimes you wonder if it’s the same road people are talking about! It seems people who don’t normally travel off road or on dirt roads will report it to be ‘pretty-rough’, ‘terrible’ etc and add all the warnings and stories that go with that. At the other end you get those that say, ‘yeah it was corrugated, but it was otherwise pretty good’, and ‘don’t know what all the fuss was about!’ So in the end you have to see for yourself. Our experience was of the latter. It’s a dirt road (done plenty of them), it has some pretty good sized rocks that are quite sharp (don’t run high tire pressures, slow down and don’t drive off the beaten tire tracks where possible), and it was corrugated and even rough in sections but definitely not as bad as some other roads we’ve been on already. Having said this, while we could have taken the van in, we’re glad we didn’t because the rocks flying up are an issue and did more than enough damage on the Oodnadatta. Moving on…

Stopping at El Questro Station we decided to stay in the end and got the last private campsite, which turned out to be more than alright! Situated a few clicks down the track from the main village area we could have been by ourselves out there with no other camps in sight. There was just enough time to squeeze in a four wheel drive over a rocky water crossing of the Chamberlain River, then through sand and over rock to look at the sunset and then to view a gorge about 15 ks from the village. We had a glimpse of the homestead from across the river which is kept off limits to rubber-neckers unless you are prepared to sell one of your children so you can stay there for a night! For dinner we enjoyed a magnificent buffet dinner prepared and served outside with live entertainment and bonfires to-boot.

Continuing down the road we stopped the next night at Home Valley Station. Also very beautiful it seems to cater better for families with a huge playground complete with its own ‘shed’ over it to provide shade and a lovely swimming pool. There were a lot more kids there too – perhaps more than we’d seen the whole trip! So the kids spent their whole time playing with the other kids and we camped next to the play area so they could come and go as they pleased. Home Valley looks back over the Cockburn Range that is spectacular as the sun sets on it. The Pentecost River runs by, and if you fancy a swim the crocs will be pleased to make a meal of you. We kept to cooling off in the resort swimming pool! Nonetheless, the fishing is supposed to be good there however we had nothing to show… again…

There is so much to say about this area; its remarkable beauty with hidden gems amidst the seeming arid appearance of sand, rock, mountain and dry river beds. It will eat you up in a moment if you don’t respect it. Being prepared to enter the region is so important from a preservation point of view, however equally in regard to seeing things with new eyes. There is life and beauty in places you don’t expect. Kilometre after kilometre could become monotonous at times however there are constant changes around and always something new to see and learn about.

Naturally we’ve been drawn to water, as are all (in their hordes it seems!). Emma Gorge was a special place. A challenging walk for the kids, we were rewarded at the end with a cool swim and an incredible place to just rest in one of creations treasures. A high walled gorge that narrows at the end with a deep pool and water spilling from an overhanging ledge took ones breath away. The walk was over very rocky ground, at time requiring hands and feet to negotiate. With encouragement the kids made the 3.2km return walk mostly by themselves – ice-creams in the end were a great reward!

We returned to Kununurra to pick up our van then proceeded as far as possible to a roadside stop for the night. The next day we drove into Purnululu NP to see the Bungle Bungles. For those not familiar with the Bungle Bungles, they are a unique mountain range recognised as a World Heritage Area for their geological formations and incredible natural beauty.

Scenic flights are popular over the Bungle Bungles as no doubt this is a great way to get a good overview of the area, but also because access to the range and park is by four wheel drive only. Many commercial tours run, and the drive in takes around 2 hours when conditions are good. If it’s wet, between 30 and 40 water crossings are required! We only did a dozen which Aidan loved! We made camp at the Walardi Camp to the south of the range. As we checked in we were handed our Census forms! You can’t escape a Census even when you’re camping in a National Park. Our address on the form is ‘Walardi Camp, Purnululu NP.’

Liz cooked scones in the camp oven that evening, and shared them with a number of campers around the campfire (they were delicious too!). In the morning we packed up camp and drove to the start of yet another gorge walk. This time the variation and nature of the geology was just so unique it seems almost straight out of a sci-fi movie or from an alien landscape. The pictures just won’t do it justice. Sandstone formations in giant domes and ridges, with bands of black and red, dry river beds with large river stones and beautiful wild flowers all around. For Dan, this was one of the most interesting and special places we’ve visited.

Driving to the north end of the range, the kids fell asleep so Dan walked into Echidna Chasm by himself. This extraordinary place is one of the reasons Purnululu got its World Heritage listing. A gorge walk up a stony creek bed quickly narrows with tall palms either side until vertical walls of stone close in to as little as a metre. Near the end a ‘round room’ opens up. Dan had the privilege of being in the place for 10-15 minutes all to himself. There was initially a bird calling with the echo bouncing from the walls, but then even the bird became silent. The place took on the atmosphere of a sanctuary. Sitting for 10 minutes in the silence was a very precious time and had there not been the need to keep moving might have continued for hours!

We drove until after dark reaching Halls Creek where we managed to get a powered site. The morning has been spent doing washing and trying to catch up on emails, the blog and other ‘house-keeping’.